Ajaccio

The house where Napoleon was born in 1769, now a national museum. Floor by floor it shows family furniture, portraits and what befell the house while the British occupied the island. It hides in a narrow old-town lane with a small sign, so navigate by map.

Four red rock islands trail out from Parata Point where the gulf opens to the sea. A path climbs to the Genoese tower on the headland, and people go up at sunset to watch the islands turn red. In summer boats circle them from the harbour.

An art museum built on the Italian paintings gathered by Cardinal Fesch, Napoleon's uncle, said to be France's largest Italian collection after the Louvre. Beside the courtyard, the Imperial Chapel holds Bonaparte family tombs in its crypt.

A church from the late 16th century where Napoleon was baptised. The font stands on your left just inside the door. An inscription inside records his wish, as death approached, to be buried in this cathedral.

Every morning stalls crowd the square near city hall, with mountain farms bringing their own sausage, cheese and honey down to sell. Most sellers slice off a taste, so try before buying. By about noon it is nearly over.

Red granite cliffs above the Gulf of Porto, carved by wind into strange shapes and listed by UNESCO. By car you squeeze past oncoming coaches on a narrow clifftop road. In summer day-long boat trips leave from Ajaccio harbour to see them from the sea.

A narrow-gauge line from Ajaccio over the island's central mountains to Corte and Bastia. It runs through the Vizzavona forest and crosses a tall viaduct built by Eiffel's firm. Trains are a car or two long, so summer fills them with hikers.

At the top of a hillside stair stands Napoleon in his frock coat, with his victories carved on the wall behind. Local tradition makes the rock grotto beside it young Napoleon's playground. Few tourists come, so in the morning you have it quietly.

A Genoese watchtower across the gulf where the Prunelli meets the sea; a young Napoleon, losing out in island politics in 1793, held out there for several days. It is reached on foot along the sand from Porticcio beach.

A conservation centre in the Gravona valley woods that keeps and breeds tortoises and turtles of many species, raising native Hermann's tortoises here for release. It shuts while the animals hibernate through winter.

A prehistoric valley site south of Ajaccio, where standing stones carved with faces and swords rise among olive trees. Most date to the Bronze Age, thousands of years ago. The car ride is near sixty minutes, and the midday sun is fierce: pack a hat.

A mountain town at the centre of Corsica, seat of the independent government Pascal Paoli led from 1755. A citadel perches on a rock above it, and the island's only university is here. The mountain train from Ajaccio needs about two hours.

A northwest shore of red volcanic cliffs and sea caves, inscribed by UNESCO along with the Gulf of Porto. With no road in, it can only be seen by boat. Day cruises leave Ajaccio harbour and also pass the Calanques de Piana.

A seaside village founded in the 17th century by settlers from the Greek Peloponnese. A church of the Greek rite and a Latin church stand opposite one another, a small valley between them. Ajaccio is roughly an hour south along the shore.

A sandy beach tucked behind the headland west of Ajaccio, with nothing built around it but scrub. Facing west, it catches big surf and draws board riders. Currents are strong, so check the flags before swimming.

Beech and pine forest around Vizzavona, a stop on the mountain railway. Following the GR20 trail into the woods brings you to the Cascade des Anglais, water stepping down over granite. The pools are icy even in summer, so most visitors only dip their feet.