A resort town with Seljuk walls on a rock peninsula pushing out to sea and long sand beaches either side. The Taurus range stands close behind the shore, so canyons and caves make a half-day trip. High summer is humid and hot; April to June or September and October suit walking better.
01Alanya Castle
Alaeddin Keykubad, the Seljuk sultan, took the peninsula in 1221 and then ringed the hill with walls. Homes and vegetable plots inside them are still lived in. Go up to the inner keep by bus or cable car and walk back down; the legs suffer less that way.
An octagonal tower built in 1226 to guard the harbour, stone at the base and red brick above. It holds a folk display, and up the last flight harbour and walls show together. The steps are high and narrow; grip the rail descending.
A shipyard carved into the rocky shore in 1228, five arched bays side by side opening onto the water. Walk there along the path below the walls from the Red Tower, or take a boat from the harbour. The path crosses slick rock, so firm soles help.
A dripstone cave uncovered by chance in 1948 while stone was quarried for harbour works. Its air is humid and warm, and the belief that it eases asthma keeps some visitors seated inside. Ten minutes or so covers it, and glasses fog as soon as you enter.
Sand runs a long way west of the castle rock. It is named after a tale that Cleopatra swam here. At the beach's east end are the Damlatas Cave entrance and the lower cable car station, so one day's route ties up neatly.
A limestone cave up on the mountainside east of town. A walkway leads through it, and at the far end a small lake sits pooled. Even in high summer the inside stays cool, so a light layer is worth bringing.
Restaurants line the valley with wooden platforms laid over the Dim river, where you eat to the sound of the water. Grilled trout and gozleme are the standard order. At weekend lunchtime local families pile in and the platforms fill early.
Past mountain villages and a long climb up a narrow road, a timber walkway follows the canyon wall. On the way to its end you pass several waterfalls and pools of ice-cold water. The road winds and buses are scarce, so many people hire a car or go with a tour.
Gondolas run over the rock slope from the Damlatas beach side up to the Ehmedek quarter partway up the castle. On the way up Cleopatra Beach spreads out beneath you. Around sunset the line is at its longest, so plan on waiting then.
Boats leaving the harbour loop round the castle rock and edge up to several sea caves. The Phosphorus, Pirates and Lovers caves are regular stops, with a break partway for a swim. Stops and timings vary by boat, so check before paying.
A caravan inn built by the Seljuk sultan Alaeddin Keykubad beside the Alara river in 1231. Alara Castle crowns the crag right behind it. From Alanya, follow the coast road west, then turn inland along the river.
An ancient city on a coastal hill southeast of Alanya, its colonnaded street, baths and cisterns still in place. The height gives a long view down the Mediterranean shore. Visitors are scarce, and the ruins often feel private.
A small museum of finds from nearby sites, its prize a Roman bronze Herakles of the 2nd century. Sarcophagi and gravestones stand in the back garden. Damlatas Cave lies a stroll away; pair them.