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Portugal's oldest archbishopric, with churches packed side by side across the small old centre. The zigzag stair of a pilgrim shrine on the eastern hill is the city's face, and a university keeps the streets young. Holy Week before Easter is the peak; spring and autumn avoid the wet winter.

01Bom Jesus do Monte Stairway

A Baroque stair zigzags up to the hilltop church, with a fountain for each of the five senses on its landings. It became a World Heritage site in 2019, and many people ride the funicular up and walk the steps down.

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02Bom Jesus Water Funicular

Built in 1882, the funicular fills a tank on the upper car with water and lets that weight haul the lower car up. It still works the same way, and the two cars squeeze past each other at the midpoint.

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03Braga Cathedral

Begun in the eleventh century, it is the oldest cathedral in Portugal. Apart from entering to pray, visitors buy tickets by route for the cathedral itself, the chapels including the Kings' Chapel where the parents of the first king lie, and the treasury.

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04Sameiro Sanctuary

A Marian shrine on a summit higher than Bom Jesus, counted as the country's largest pilgrimage site after Fatima. Stairs under the dome lead onto the roof, where Braga and the Minho farmland open out.

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05Santa Barbara Garden

Box hedge patterns and flower beds sit beneath the walls and arches of the medieval archbishop's palace. The flowers are fullest in spring, and old town workers eat lunch on the benches along the palace wall.

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06Raio Palace

An eighteenth century mansion with its whole front in blue tile and the windows framed in curving granite. Inside, a modest display covers the charity hospital, so many people look at the front and walk on.

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07Biscainhos Museum

A seventeenth century noble mansion, now a museum where the furniture and tableware stay in place. The Baroque garden at the back has fountains and a box maze, and many visitors spend longer there than in the house.

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08Tibaes Monastery

Once the mother house of the Benedictines in Portugal and Brazil, a 15 minute drive northwest of the centre. Hidden in the wooded hill behind is a Baroque water stair where a stream runs down the steps.

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09Citania de Briteiros

The stone village of an Iron Age Celtic people on a hilltop, with two round houses rebuilt as they once stood. Being on the summit, it has almost no shade.

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10Peneda-Geres National Park

Portugal's only national park, where a Roman road and its milestones survive among granite peaks and waterfalls. On summer weekends the car parks by the falls are full from the morning.

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11Arco da Porta Nova

A Baroque triumphal arch of 1773 marking the historic centre's west entry, built with no doors at all. That is why Portuguese tease anyone who leaves a door open by asking if they are from Braga. Through it begins the pedestrian street to the cathedral.

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12Capela dos Coimbras

A small 16th-century chapel built by the Coimbra family, with a crenellated Manueline tower. Inside, carved stone figures of Christ's Passion ring the altar. It is wedged into the central shopping streets, easy to drop into in passing.

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13Fonte do Idolo

A Roman shrine at a water source, with a human figure and inscriptions cut into the rock, dated to the 1st century. A modern building now roofs it over, and you gaze down from a sunken room. It survives from Braga's days as Roman Bracara Augusta.

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14Barcelos Thursday Market

Every Thursday a market fills the big square of Barcelos, west of Braga, with vegetables, poultry, pottery and wooden crafts. The souvenir rooster was born here, and stalls brim with them in all sizes. Mornings are busiest; packing up starts around noon.

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15Ponte de Lima

Chartered in 1125, it is reckoned Portugal's oldest town. A long medieval stone bridge crosses the Lima on Roman foundations. Legend says Roman soldiers took the river for Lethe, the stream of forgetting, and feared to cross; statues by the bridge recall it.

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