SOUTH MORAVIA
Brno
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The second city of the country, where students rather than visitors set the tone. Modernist architecture, an underground ossuary and the vineyards to the south all belong to the same place. Terrace seating opens for May, June, September, October.

03Spilberk Castle

On the hill above town, with the underground galleries that served as a prison under Austrian rule still open. From the ramparts the city drops away on every side.

OPEN IN MAPS© Karolina · Pexels License · Pexels
07Petrov Cathedral

The twin towered cathedral on the hill rings its bell at eleven rather than at midday. The story goes that during the siege of 1645 the defenders brought noon forward by an hour to hold the besiegers to their word.

OPEN IN MAPS© Ignat Arapov · Pexels License · Pexels
11Brno Old Town Hall

A stuffed crocodile known as the Brno Dragon hangs from the entrance passage, beside a wooden cartwheel that legend says took a single day to make. Over the portal, one small pinnacle leans deliberately crooked. The tower climb shows the old town rooftops.

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12Capuchin Crypt Brno

Beneath the Capuchin monastery, friars lie without coffins. Air drawn through underground vents is said to have mummified them naturally. The notorious soldier Baron Trenck rests here too, just off the Cabbage Market.

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13Mendel Museum

In Old Brno's Augustinian abbey, Gregor Mendel, later its abbot, grew peas and found the laws of heredity. The museum is inside the abbey, and the foundations of his greenhouse remain in the garden. The Starobrno brewery is next door, worth combining.

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14Macocha Abyss and Punkva Caves

Caves in the Moravian Karst north of Brno: you walk in, then a boat on an underground river surfaces at the base of the 138m Macocha Abyss. Summer tickets go fast, so reserve. The caves stay cold even in hot weather, so bring a layer.

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15Austerlitz Battlefield

Ground where Napoleon beat the Austrian and Russian armies on 2 December 1805, the Battle of the Three Emperors. On the summit of Prace hill stand the Peace Monument to the fallen and a small museum. A re-enactment is held every year in early December.

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16Pernstejn Castle

A Gothic castle stacked in towers and bridges on a forest crag northwest of Brno. Spared major rebuilding for centuries, it keeps a nearly untouched medieval look. From the village, a steep path leads up to the gate.

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