CITY
Chinatown

Chinatown

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The first Chinese quarter, so temples, markets and old lodging houses stack up inside a few blocks. A Hindu temple and a mosque on the same street tell you how the quarter grew. It fills hardest in the days that lead to Lunar New Year, when stalls cover the road late into the night.

01Sri Mariamman Temple

A Hindu temple in the middle of Chinatown. Figures of people, cattle and gods are stacked up the gate tower. Shoes come off and are left at the door. In October or November a fire-walking rite fills it, and the queue starts before dawn.

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02Buddha Tooth Relic Temple

A gilded five-storey building, temple all the way up. The relic hall on level 4 holds the stupa with the tooth and bars cameras, while the roof carries a hand-turned prayer wheel and an orchid garden. A drum sounds downstairs at the morning offering.

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03Thian Hock Keng Temple

The sea once came up to this door. Hokkien arrivals raised it in the 1840s in thanks for a safe crossing, and the timber frame holds together without a single iron nail. Reclamation has since pushed the water several blocks away.

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04Chinatown Complex

The hawker centre with the most stalls in Singapore. A wet market fills the basement and the food floor sits above it, so vegetables and fish are what you walk past on the way to lunch. A few of the busiest stalls sell out by two or three in the afternoon.

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05Chinatown Heritage Centre

Three shophouses knocked together hold rebuilt 1950s lodgings. Cubicles where several families shared one floor, a communal kitchen and an opium smoking room are all reconstructed. Steep stairs, and no lift.

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06Pagoda Street

Stall awnings meet over the lane, so it stays shaded even at midday. Nearly everything on the tables is souvenir stock, and the side lanes repay you better than shopping here does.

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07Ann Siang Hill

It is a hill, and where cars cannot climb it turns into steps. The shophouses stand as they were but hold bars and offices now, so it is quiet by day and fills after dark.

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08Neil Road

Window frames differ from door to door. This is a conservation area, so wall shades and shutter shapes cannot simply be altered, and the Peranakan houses carry different tilework on each storey. Traffic runs through, so photographs get taken from the kerb.

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09Keong Saik Road

By day it looks as though nothing has opened. It was a brothel street once, and now every narrow shophouse holds a restaurant or a bar, with the signs coming on after six in the evening.

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11Maxwell Food Centre

More than a hundred stalls under one roof, filled at lunch by office workers from Tanjong Pagar. The queue at the famous chicken rice stall is longest at noon. After 2pm a seat is far easier to find.

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12Masjid Jamae

A mosque raised in the 1830s by Chulia Muslims from the Tamil coast of south India. The twin towers over the gate resemble a Hindu temple gateway, so newcomers often mistake it for one. Along South Bridge Road a Hindu and a Buddhist temple stand steps away.

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13Nagore Dargah

An Islamic shrine on Telok Ayer Street raised to honour a saint from Nagore in south India. A row of small minarets crowns its palace-like front. Thian Hock Keng is a short stroll along the same road, and one walk covers the pair.

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14Pinnacle@Duxton Skybridge

The top-floor bridge joining seven 50-storey public housing blocks admits outsiders. Tickets are bought at the management office in Block 1G, and the gates accept only an EZ-Link card. Daily entries are capped, and by late afternoon the quota may be gone.

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15People's Park Complex

Opened in 1973, this shops-and-flats block was the country's first mall built round an open central space. The flats above are painted in bands of green, red and yellow, visible from far off. Money changers, tailors and herbal shops crowd the lower floors.

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16Yueh Hai Ching Temple

A temple founded by the Teochew community, wedged into Phillip Street between the towers of Raffles Place. The roof ridges are crowded with figures and dragons made of ceramic shards. At lunchtime people in suits come in to light incense.

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