IONIAN
Corfu

Corfu

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Four centuries of Venetian rule left buildings and cooking that differ from the rest of Greece. Rain is plentiful, the island stays green, and some four million olive trees grow on it. Rain and heat are both dodged by choosing May, June, September or October.

11Church of Saint Spyridon

The island's patron saint lies here in a silver casket, beneath the old town's tallest, red-capped bell tower. Four times a year his relics are carried round the streets and Corfu stops for the day. Pilgrims queue to enter the side chamber and kiss the casket.

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12New Fortress

Venetian engineers piled it onto a western hilltop above the old port as the 1500s closed. Tunnels twist through its walls, and up top the rooftops and the Old Fortress fit one frame. It draws far fewer visitors than its older sibling.

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13Museum of Asian Art

Housed in the Palace of Saint Michael and Saint George, built in the late 1810s for the British Lord High Commissioner. It began with the Chinese and Japanese ceramics and armour of diplomat Gregorios Manos. Few Greek museums deal in Asian art alone.

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14Mon Repos

A neoclassical villa built around 1830 for the British High Commissioner and his wife; Prince Philip was born in it in 1921. It now shows finds from the ancient city of Palaiopolis. Temple of Hera ruins lie scattered through the wooded park.

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15Angelokastro

A 13th-century Byzantine castle clings to a crag over 300m above the northwest shore. It held out against Ottoman sieges in the 16th century, and the chapel on top overlooks Paleokastritsa. Walkers leave cars at Krini and tackle a steep path.

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16Kassiopi

Fishing boats fill this northeastern harbour; past its ruined medieval castle, Albania's mountains loom across the strait. Tavernas wrap the harbour; swimmers use the rocks below the castle. Budget upward of an hour on the winding coast road from Corfu Town.

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17Archaeological Museum of Corfu

Its star is the Gorgon from the pediment of an early 6th-century BC temple of Artemis, counted the oldest surviving stone pediment in Greece. Panthers crouch either side of the tongue-poking Gorgon. With only a few rooms, it fits between ferry times.

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18Kalami Bay

Lawrence Durrell spent the 1930s in the White House on this northeastern pebble bay, right by the water. Its ground floor is now a taverna with tables at the sea's lip. Clear, calm water draws snorkellers between the rocks.

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