Florianopolis

The surf here holds competitions, and large dunes rise behind the sand. Boards are hired to slide down them.

A large lagoon at the island's centre, calm enough for paddling. The village on the far shore is reached only by boat, with no road to it.

Settlers from the Azores founded this village, and its white houses with blue doors remain. Facing west, the water stays calm and the evening sun drops into it.

A suspension bridge of 1926 that stood closed for years before its repair finished. It now carries walkers and cyclists alone.

Fifteen minutes by boat, with a daily cap on how many may land. Prehistoric carvings on the rock are seen with a guide.

No road reaches it, so the way in is an hour of hill trail. Nothing is provided there, and water with food has to be carried.

An 1898 hall mixing oyster and fish counters with bars. Late afternoon is when those bars inside are busiest.

An old village down the southern shore with oyster beds floating in the bay. Kitchens there bring up the day's oysters from that water.

Wax on the board carries you down the dune and then you walk back up. The sand heats enough that standing barefoot at midday is hard.

Between July and November they come to this coast to calve. On some days they show from the shore, so people wait on the sand instead of taking a boat.

Tucked under a rocky hill between Joaquina and the lagoon, this beach gets heavy surf and plenty of surfers. Paragliders take off from the slope above and touch down on the sand. Parking is tight and gone by afternoon.

Built in 1744 on a tiny island in the bay north of Santa Catarina Island, reachable only by boat. Its barracks and powder magazine have been restored. Dolphins often surface in that bay on the crossing, so keep watching from the deck.

A freshwater lake in the forested south of the island, inside a park, so no houses crowd the shore. The sea is close, yet the water is fresh and still enough to swim. A forest path from the park gate leads to a small waterfall.

A huge fig tree, planted over 100 years ago, spreads its limbs across the heart of the main square. Iron props hold its branches up. The cathedral and the old palace museum face the square, so see them too.

A fishing village where the lagoon empties into the sea through a canal; a swaying footbridge crosses to a small beach. Past it, rock pools shielded from the surf are safe even for children. Canal-side restaurants cook the day's catch.

Down at the very bottom of the island, this beach takes about 1 hour of forest hiking. An old lighthouse and gun emplacements survive on the hill. For the return you can catch a boat to the village of Caieira.

A beach village some 50km south of the island, where the river mouth separates you from the sand. Wade across when it runs shallow, take the little ferry boat when it is deep. Its even, steady waves keep many surf schools busy.

A north-shore beach with gentle water that suits families. The Jurere Internacional stretch is lined with big villas and beach clubs. An 18th-century fort survives at the opposite end.