SCOTLAND

Glasgow

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Scotland's largest city grew on Clyde shipyards and the tobacco trade. The council-run museums and galleries are free, so many places stay open to you on a wet day. Edinburgh lies an hour off by rail, which makes pairing the two cities easy.

01Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum

A red sandstone building puts stuffed animals and European paintings under one roof, and admission is free. Dali's Christ of St John of the Cross is the signature piece. The central hall's pipe organ gives a recital most days, Sundays in the afternoon.

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02Glasgow Cathedral

One of the few medieval cathedrals on mainland Scotland that kept its roof through the Reformation. Down in the lower church, the tomb of St Mungo, the city's patron saint, sits among the pillars. Many leave having seen only the upper floor.

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03Glasgow Necropolis

A Victorian cemetery covers the hill behind the cathedral, merchant families buried under temples and obelisks. The John Knox column crowns the top, with the cathedral roof below your feet. The paths are steep and slippery when wet.

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04Riverside Museum

Zaha Hadid's zigzag-roofed building is packed with trams, steam locomotives and bicycles, and entry is free. Inside is a life-size street of old Glasgow. The tall ship Glenlee is moored on the river behind the building, and you can climb up onto its deck.

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05University of Glasgow

Founded in 1451, the university moved to the Gothic main building on the hill in the 19th century. Below it the cloisters are a passage of pillars and arches, and someone is always there with a camera. The Hunterian Museum inside takes no ticket.

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06Burrell Collection

Shipowner William Burrell gave his collection to the city, and it sits in the woods of Pollok Country Park. After years closed for refurbishment it reopened in 2022, free to enter. Shaggy Highland cattle graze the meadow, and some kids come for them instead.

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07Duke of Wellington Statue with Cone

Someone keeps an orange traffic cone on the head of the horseback statue outside the Gallery of Modern Art. The council has tried clearing it, but by the next day it is back, and it has become a face of the city. The gallery behind is free.

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08Glasgow Subway

Opened in 1896, it is the oldest underground railway after London and Budapest, and it runs a single loop. The cars are small with low ceilings, so tall riders duck at the doors. Pick the Inner or Outer Circle, whichever way round is shorter.

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09Mackintosh at the Willow

Charles Rennie Mackintosh fitted out this Sauchiehall Street tea room for Kate Cranston in 1903. He drew the chairs, window grilles and lights, and after restoration it reopened as a tea room in 2018. Book ahead, as the upstairs Salon de Luxe fills fast.

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10Loch Lomond

By surface area the largest freshwater loch in Great Britain; trains run from the city to Balloch village at its southern end. Cruise boats leave the Balloch pier and loop between the islands. Midges swarm the summer shore, so pack repellent.

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11Glasgow Botanic Gardens

Free botanic gardens where Great Western Road ends in the West End. The white iron-and-glass Kibble Palace began as a businessman's private conservatory and was moved here in 1873. Its round inner chamber holds tree ferns and marble statues.

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12Glasgow City Chambers

The city hall fills the east side of George Square; Queen Victoria opened it in 1888. Its marble stairs and mosaic floors have doubled on film for the Vatican and the British Embassy in Moscow. Council-run guided tours show the interior.

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13Pollok House

An 18th-century mansion in Pollok Country Park, the same park as the Burrell Collection. It hangs Spanish paintings including El Greco and Goya, and the old basement kitchen is now a tearoom. A herd of shaggy Highland cattle grazes the field out front.

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14The Barras

A weekend flea market around the Gallowgate in the East End. It grew in the 1920s from the yard where Maggie McIver hired out barrows, and now mixes second-hand clothes, bric-a-brac and street food. The Barrowland Ballroom's neon sign marks the spot.

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15City Centre Mural Trail

A route linking giant murals on gable ends, with a map from the city. On High Street, St Mungo appears in modern dress cradling a bird. Seeing them all eats half a day, and some hide in places as easy to miss as the back of a car park.

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16Glasgow Science Centre

A titanium-clad crescent on Pacific Quay across the Clyde from the SEC. Three floors of hands-on exhibits share the site with a planetarium and an IMAX cinema. Walkers from the SEC side cross by footbridge and arrive almost at once.

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17New Lanark

A cotton-spinning village built in 1786 in a gorge of the upper Clyde, listed by UNESCO. Robert Owen tested workers' schooling and better living here. Take the train to Lanark, then a bus; the woodland path above the village leads to the Falls of Clyde.

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