GUANAJUATO
Guanajuato

Guanajuato

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Silver built this city, and its houses stack up a narrow ravine in every colour. Old mine drainage tunnels were turned into roads, so cars run underground and the surface is left to people. Walking suits March or April, and October or November.

11Alhondiga de Granaditas

A former granary, stormed in 1810 in the insurgents' first big victory. Later the heads of four captured independence leaders hung in iron cages from its four corners for 10 years. Today it is the state's regional museum, a big mural climbing the stairwell.

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12Mercado Hidalgo

An iron-roofed market hall opened in 1910, a clock tower out front. The ceiling is so lofty that a story says it was drawn up as a railway station. Food counters and fruit fill the ground floor, souvenirs the upper gallery overlooking it.

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13Jardin de la Union

A small triangular square before the Juarez Theatre, its Indian laurels clipped flat into a canopy. Bands play the central bandstand each evening, and the cafe terraces around it stay full late. Any walk across town starts from here.

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14Church of San Cayetano

Raised in the late 1700s by the owner of the Valenciana silver mine, right beside the shaft. Inside, three gilded Churrigueresque altarpieces fill the walls. It sits up the hill; ride the bus from town and see the mine on the same trip.

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15Templo de la Compania

A Jesuit church raised in the mid-18th century right beside the university. Its pink stone facade is richly carved, and light falls through a dome rebuilt after the first one collapsed. It is an easy stop while climbing the university steps.

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16Don Quixote Iconographic Museum

Paintings, sculpture and ceramics devoted to Don Quixote alone. Fitting for the Cervantes festival city, every room hangs the knight and Sancho as artists across the world saw them. On Tuesdays admission is free.

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17Cervantino Festival

A performing arts festival held for about three weeks every October since 1972. It grew from students staging Cervantes' short interludes in the Plaza de San Roque in the 1950s. Rooms cost several times more during the festival, so book early.

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18Presa de la Olla

A reservoir held back by a dam of 1749, on the eastern edge of town. The lakeside park rents out rowing boats, and mansions of 19th-century mine owners still stand around it. Quieter than the centre, it suits a morning walk.

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19Cristo Rey del Cubilete

A colossal bronze Christ atop Cubilete hill, toward Silao. The spot has long been held to be the centre of Mexico, and pilgrims come in numbers. The road up winds steeply, and the summit is windy and chilly.

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20Dolores Hidalgo

Roughly an hour by car, the town where Father Hidalgo called for independence outside his church on 16 September 1810. That church still stands on the square, with Talavera workshops dotted around. Plaza ice cream carts sell even avocado or shrimp flavours.

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