Kona

A kapu-breaker facing death who reached this refuge, even by swimming, could be absolved by a priest and leave alive. The great lava-stone wall, laid without mortar, still stands, with carved wooden images on the shore. Snorkellers enter next door at Two Step.

Captain James Cook was killed on the bay's northern shore in 1779, and a white obelisk marks the spot. As a marine reserve it holds thick coral, and spinner dolphins come in to rest. Landing a kayak at the monument means going with a permitted outfitter.

After dark, lights shone down from the boat draw plankton, and manta rays wider than a person is tall somersault just below to feed on it. A touch strips the protective coating from their skin, so simply float.

Governor Kuakini built it in 1838 of lava rock set in coral lime, and the royals later made it a summer retreat. It stands on the Kailua-Kona seafront, its upstairs veranda facing the bay. Across the street is Hawaii's oldest church, in the same stone.

Roads and trails follow the rim of Kilauea's caldera, and steam rises from cracks in the ground. While an eruption is under way the sky beyond the caldera glows red after dark. The drive from Kona takes more than two hours each way, so give it the whole day.

Observatories from many nations crowd the summit, over 4,200m up. Rest 30 minutes or more near 2,800m to adjust, and only four-wheel-drive vehicles go higher. The peak is sacred to Hawaiians, and new telescopes have met long protests.

Counted the widest white-sand beach on the Kohala coast, set off by black lava fields all around. In winter big surf can turn the water dangerous, so check the beach flags first. Out-of-state visitors pay for entry and parking.

Where the North Kohala road ends, a deep valley and a black boulder beach open out below. The dirt trail down is short but steep and turns slick in rain, so wear firm-soled shoes. Currents off the beach run strong and swimming there is dangerous.

Fishponds where early Hawaiians walled off the sea with lava stone to raise fish survive here. Though minutes from the airport it sees few visitors, and turtles regularly haul out to rest on Honokohau Beach to the south.

A small sandy beach beside Alii Drive, south of Kailua-Kona. Big winter surf can strip the sand overnight and leave bare rock, then it drifts back once the sea calms, hence the name. Waves break hard at the shore, which draws bodyboarders.

A shallow cove beside the coast road south of Kailua-Kona, kept calm by an old breakwater. Yellow tang and turtles show up in knee-deep water, ideal for first-time snorkellers. Volunteers ask visitors to keep clear of the rocks where turtles haul out.

A stone temple Kamehameha I raised to the war god in the 1790s, before uniting the islands. Tradition says the stones were passed hand to hand along a human chain from a distant valley. Being sacred, the platform is off limits; the trail below gives the view.

A black sand beach on the southern route to the volcano park, its grains formed when lava shattered on meeting the sea. Sea turtles often sleep on the sand, so watch from a distance. Taking the black sand away is prohibited.

Across the island on the wet Hamakua side north of Hilo, this state-park fall plunges straight for more than 130m. A short loop path winds there through bamboo and ginger. Driving from Kona takes around two hours, so pair it with a loop around the island.

Built in 1837 of lava stone bound with mortar from burnt coral, it is the oldest Christian church in Hawaii. It stands right across the street from Hulihee Palace. Inside, the posts and ceiling are native koa wood with a reddish sheen.