SOUTH AEGEAN

Kos

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Hippocrates, father of medicine, was born here, and a tree and a healing sanctuary tied to him survive. Long and flat, Kos has bike lanes along its coast, and Bodrum in Turkey is a short boat hop away. Package tourists swamp high summer; May with June, and September with October, are calmer.

01Asklepieion of Kos

A healing sanctuary to the god of medicine, built after Hippocrates died and cut into the hillside as three terraces. The highest level gazes over the strait toward the Turkish coast, and the stairs between levels have almost no shade.

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02Hippocrates Plane Tree

An ancient plane tree under which Hippocrates supposedly taught, though experts reckon its true age far younger. Iron props hold up the heavy limbs, and an Ottoman era fountain stands beside it.

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03Neratzia Castle

The Knights Hospitaller raised this castle at the harbour mouth, and a palm lined road now fills the old moat, crossed on a stone bridge. After long repairs following the 2017 earthquake it has reopened, and its walls look over the harbour and town.

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04Ancient Agora of Kos

The site of the ancient market at the heart of town, scattered with columns and temple floors, crossed by paths you walk through free. Once the sun sets the lighting comes on, and the stone columns glow white seen from the cafe street.

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05Casa Romana

A wealthy Roman household of the third century, restored down to the roof so you can walk its rooms and courtyards as laid out. The floor mosaics keep dolphins, fish and a leopard on the hunt.

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06Agios Stefanos Basilica

Just above the sand of Kefalos bay in the west, columns and floors of a fifth century early Christian basilica survive. The islet of Kastri offshore carries a chapel, and some people swim across to it.

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07Zia Village

A village high on Mount Dikaios facing west, where sunsets play over the north coast and the islands across the sea. Coaches arrive in force at dusk and the taverna tables with a view fill early, so get there an hour before.

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08Embros Thermes

A natural pool on the rocky shore southeast of town where hot spring water runs out between the stones and mixes with the sea. People shift rocks to adjust the temperature, and the pool is small, so only dawn arrivals find room.

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09Palio Pyli

An abandoned village beneath a Byzantine hill fort, with a small church still holding frescoes among the collapsed houses. A steep stony trail from the parking area reaches the castle in about 20 minutes.

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10Alykes Salt Lake

A shallow salt lake behind Tigaki beach on the north coast, where flamingos settle from winter into spring. In summer the water dries back to white crust, so birdwatchers avoid that season.

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11Archaeological Museum of Kos

An Italian-era building on Eleftherias Square holding the island's Hellenistic and Roman sculpture. The prize is a marble figure believed to be Hippocrates. The central courtyard floor carries a mosaic of Hippocrates welcoming the god of healing.

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12Western Excavations and Odeon

Roman streets uncovered when wreckage from the 1933 earthquake was cleared, with mosaics on house floors along the main road. Across the street, a small odeon curves its marble seats round a stage. Being mid-town, it makes an easy pass on an evening stroll.

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13Antimachia Castle

A triangle of walls the Knights Hospitaller built on the island's central plateau, minutes from the airport. A grand master's arms are carved over the gate, and only two small chapels survive within. Walk the ramparts and water glints north and south.

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14Nisyros Volcano

A round volcanic island across the water south of Kos, with day boats from Kardamena harbour. Walk down onto the floor of Stefanos crater and the ground steams hot and smells of sulphur. It is slippery and hot underfoot, so trainers beat sandals.

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