Kota Bharu

The central market: tiers of stalls ring an octagonal hall, and most traders are women. Produce sits in coloured heaps on the central floor, and the view from the upper railing is famous. Eat breakfast at the upstairs stalls; trade fades by early afternoon.

A timber palace from the nineteenth century, now a museum of royal ceremony such as weddings and coming-of-age rites. Its posts and eaves are finely carved. Photography inside is not allowed, so check the notice at the entrance.

A royal palace painted sky blue and white, its furniture, tableware and photographs left as the royals used them. It shares the old town centre with the market and the other palaces, all within walking distance. In shorts, borrow a wrap at the entrance.

One of the oldest mosques in Malaysia, its timbers fitted together without nails. It stood in a riverside village until repeated flooding forced a move, and it was rebuilt at Nilam Puri. Non-Muslims cannot enter during prayer times.

Kelantan's state mosque, downtown, overflowing onto the surrounding streets for Friday prayers by day. Most shops in the centre pull their shutters at that hour. Once prayers end, food stalls line the road in front.

A temple in a Thai Buddhist village at Tumpat, home to one of the largest reclining Buddhas in Southeast Asia. Thai communities have lived in Kelantan for centuries. It takes half an hour northwest by car, and buses are rare, so hire a taxi.

A Thai temple whose giant seated Buddha rises from the rice fields, visible from far off. The shrines around it are thick with Thai gold ornament. It lies in the same Tumpat area as Wat Photivihan, so both fit in one day.

The shore north of town, renamed Moonlight Beach after the old name, Beach of Passionate Love, was judged improper. Currents are strong and few people swim; they come to eat seafood at the beach restaurants. Weekend evenings fill with family outings.

A mosque in the border town of Rantau Panjang, built with red pillars and green-tiled roofs like a Chinese palace. Its Chinese styling gave it the nickname. It is close to the border market, so people call in on the way to shop.

The building opposite Siti Khadijah Market, every floor crammed with batik, songket weaving and headscarf shops. Kelantan batik mixes hand-drawn and stamped pieces, and prices differ hugely. Hand-drawn cloth shows its colour right through, so turn it over.

A beach at Bachok to the southeast, shaded by casuarina trees along the shore. Weekends bring families flying kites and spreading mats. The currents are strong, so people come to stroll and snack at sunset rather than swim.

A handicraft village near the royal museum, whose crafts museum gathers batik, songket weaving and Kelantan silverwork. An attached shop sells local crafts. Istana Batu lies within easy walking distance, making a natural pairing.

A duty-free town on the river border with Thailand, its streets packed with shops selling fabric, tableware and snacks. Driving there from Kota Bharu takes roughly sixty minutes. Thailand is just over the bridge, so traders take both ringgit and baht.