Luoyang

World Heritage: 2,000-plus caves and niches cut into both cliffs of the Yi River, Northern Wei to Tang. Fengxian Si's great Vairocana, finished in 675, reputedly wears Empress Wu's face. The west cliff looks east, so morning light falls on the faces.

China's first Buddhist temple, founded in 68 and named for the white horse that bore Indian monks and their sutras here. West of the old grounds, halls built by India, Thailand and Myanmar in their own styles stand side by side.

Lijingmen, the old city's rebuilt west gate, with the lanes round it dressed up as an old-town quarter. So many rent hanfu that by evening the lanes fill with period costume. Crowds peak as the gate tower lights up around sunset.

A park over the Eastern Zhou royal city, with the busiest peony beds of the April festival. Varieties open at different times, so the peak spans ten days or so either side of mid-April. Festival entry costs extra; come at morning opening to beat crowds.

The Sui-Tang palace's main gate, its towers rebuilt to full scale over the excavated base, with the site museum inside. Floodlit at night, it photographs better than by day. The square is wide; step well back to fit it in one frame.

Empress Wu's ritual Hall of Light and the Buddhist tower behind it, rebuilt over their excavated sites. Under the Mingtang the Tang pillar pit is preserved beneath glass. From Tiantang's upper floors the whole Sui-Tang palace site lies below.

Where Guan Yu's head is buried, given a full rite by Cao Cao, the story goes. The cypress grove before the mound at the back is dense, and incense never stops. It pairs with the tomb of his body at Dangyang in Hubei.

Chariot and horse pits from the Eastern Zhou royal burial ground, kept where they were dug. One chariot was found with six horses yoked to it, confirming the old texts that the Son of Heaven rode behind six. It lies beneath a central square, easy to find.

Home of Chan Buddhism and Shaolin kung fu, under Mount Song in Dengfeng, some 90 minutes' drive from Luoyang. In the Pagoda Forest behind it about 200 brick reliquaries of past abbots stand like trees. Kung fu shows run at set times; plan around them.

A Luanchuan county mountain with gold-roofed Taoist temples perched on its sharp peaks, seeming to float when cloud comes in. Past the cable car, a long cliff walkway still leads to the summit temple. Nearly three hours by car from Luoyang; it takes the day.

The city museum lays out, in date order, finds from Luoyang's many dynasties as a capital. The Tang sancai horses and camels and the bronze ritual vessels stand out. Tickets are issued against a passport, and the halls need half a day.

Tombs from the Han to the Song, moved from their digs and reassembled underground. You walk inside to see the wall paintings in place. Mang Hill behind it is the burial hill behind the Korean saying for going to one's grave.

The site of a pond inside the Sui and Tang palace city, now replanted with gardens and pavilions, close to Yingtian Gate. Bridges link the islands in the middle. At nightfall the pavilions light up and people in rented hanfu gather for photos.

On the east hill facing the Longmen Grottoes, the tomb garden of poet Bai Juyi, who ended his days in Luoyang. Poem steles stand among bamboo, and the west cliff caves show across the river. The Longmen ticket covers it; cross the bridge after the caves.

A museum for the Erlitou site at Yanshi, thought to be a Xia dynasty capital. The star exhibit is a dragon made of thousands of turquoise pieces. It is out of town, so a taxi or hired car beats the bus.

A red sandstone gorge in Xin'an County, its walls still printed with fossil ripple marks. Along its narrow floor come falls, then pools, then more falls. At the height of summer the gorge still feels chilly, and wet stone underfoot calls for firm soles.

The crossroads street of Luoyang's old walled town, its lanes packed with food stalls after dark. More locals than at the Sui and Tang sites, it is closer to a real Luoyang night. The lights stay on well past ten.