SULAWESI

Manado

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Manado sits on Sulawesi's far northern point, and as most residents are Protestant Minahasans, churches crowd the city unusually thickly. Divers come for Bunaken's coral walls and eaters for fiery cooking, with volcanoes and lakes in the highlands. July to October, when rain is light, is best.

01Bunaken National Marine Park

Coral cliffs plunge sheer around the islands off Manado, a famous wall-diving ground. The crossing from the city pier lasts 30 to 45 minutes, and a separate park levy is collected on the island. In the rainy season westerlies sometimes drive rubbish in.

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02Lembeh Strait

The strait off Bitung has a floor of black volcanic sand, and it is revered for muck diving, the hunt for small strange creatures hiding on it. Allow roughly ninety minutes by car from Manado; dive resorts line the shore.

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03Tangkoko Nature Reserve

Forest home to tarsiers, crested black macaques and hornbills, walked with a licensed guide. Tarsiers leave their hollow trees at dusk to start hunting, so groups set off once the afternoon is waning and stand by the trees for that moment.

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04Tomohon Market

The traditional market of highland Tomohon, nicknamed the extreme market because its meat aisle sells what Minahasans eat, bats and wild boar among them. The city announced an end to the dog and cat trade in 2023, and the squeamish can simply skip that aisle.

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05Lake Linow

A sulphurous lake whose water shifts between green, turquoise and brown with the light and wind, steam rising at its edge. The entry ticket for the lakeside cafe includes a drink, so visitors sit and watch the colours turn.

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06Mount Lokon

Tomohon's backdrop is this active volcano, with a trail towards the crater that is often closed depending on the volcano's activity. Even on open days, check the alert level at the observatory and go with a local guide.

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07Bukit Kasih (Hill of Love)

A hill at Kanonang where houses of worship for five faiths stand side by side as a statement of mutual respect. A long stairway climbs to the cross tower on the summit, and sulphurous vapour seeps from fissures all over the slopes.

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08Sawangan Waruga Park

Over a hundred waruga, the stone box tombs in which Minahasans placed their dead in a crouching position, gathered in one place. Guides explain that the human and animal carvings on the roof-shaped lids tell what the dead did in life.

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09Jesus Blessing Statue

Perched above the CitraLand housing estate, the figure of Christ leans forward as if about to take flight. From below the support is hidden, so the figure seems to hover in the air, and it is lit up at night.

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10Lake Tondano

The biggest lake of the Minahasa highlands, its shore lined with restaurants on stilts serving freshwater fish. Carp comes grilled in hot spices or fried, and the lake breeze keeps it cool even by day.

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11Siladen Island

A small island off Bunaken's northeast, where a coral wall drops into deep water just off its white sand beach. A few strokes from shore bring turtles and fish schools. You can circle it on foot, and only a handful of resorts offer beds.

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12Mount Mahawu Crater

A volcano east of Tomohon where cars climb almost to the top, leaving only short stairs to the crater rim. Green water pools inside, and across from it you see Mount Lokon and Manado Bay. Many go up before dawn for the sunrise.

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13Manado Tua Island

A dormant volcano island rising like a cone inside Bunaken Marine Park, in view all along the Manado shore. The summit is a climb of several hours through forest, led by a guide from the island village. Coral walls ring it underwater, so dive boats call often.

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14Ban Hin Kiong Temple

Standing amid Chinatown and first built in the early 19th century, this is Manado's oldest Chinese temple. At Cap Go Meh, the 15th day of the lunar new year, a parade of deities borne in palanquins leaves from here. Its upper floors look over red roofs.

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15Pulisan Beach, Likupang

A beach at Likupang, near the northernmost point of the Minahasa peninsula, dark rocks rising through white sand. Climb the hill beside it and both bays show at once. From Manado the drive is roughly two hours, so set aside a full day.

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