NORTHERN ENGLAND
Manchester

Manchester

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Cotton mills and canals made the city, so red brick warehouses still stand in the centre and work as bars and offices. It jokes about how often it rains, though the rainfall is not exceptional for western Britain. On match days the trams fill up.

01John Rylands Library

A widow built this library in memory of her husband, and church is what it resembles inside and out. The reading room is tall with narrow windows, dark even by day. Collection items need requesting in advance, and a glass extension joins onto the side.

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02Science and Industry Museum

The oldest surviving passenger railway terminus in the world stands inside this museum. The 1830 line to Liverpool ended here. The platform and waiting rooms are still there. Steam engines run at set times, and the noise fills the building then.

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03Manchester Cathedral

Bombing stripped the roof and windows, so the rebuilt interior is bright and full of new glass. The choir stalls have hinged seats and every underside carries a different carving. Free concerts run at midday on weekdays.

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04Northern Quarter

A district of old clothing warehouses now holding record shops and cafes. Murals get painted over often enough that a wall differs year to year and film crews dress the streets as an American city, while Sunday brings a later start for most of them.

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05Castlefield

Three canals meet where the Roman fort stood, with railway viaducts crossing above them. The fort gateway is a 1980s reconstruction, so the stone is not original. People perch on the waterside steps, which have no rail, so hold on to children.

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07Peterloo Memorial

In 1819 cavalry rode into a crowd demanding reform here and eighteen people died. The memorial is a stepped circle, and it drew criticism because a wheelchair cannot get up it. Each stone carries the name of a town the marchers walked in from.

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08National Football Museum

A museum of the game's rules and records, inside a wedge of glass. About half the displays are things to touch and kick, which holds children for a long time, and entry conditions differ by where you live, so look it up before setting off.

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09MediaCityUK, Salford Quays

Broadcasters moving here turned the old docks into a quarter, and the footbridge swings aside when a boat comes through. Studio tours drop out when filming schedules shift, so check on the day, and a bridge walks you over to the gallery opposite.

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11Old Trafford

Manchester United's ground, nicknamed the Theatre of Dreams. Between fixtures, stadium tours add the museum, changing room and dugout. The clock on the south-east corner stays stopped at the time of the Munich air crash, 6 February 1958.

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12Chetham's Library

Opened in 1653, held to be the oldest public library anywhere in English. The window alcove where Marx and Engels studied in 1845 is still there. Being inside a music school, visitors join guided tours booked online.

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13The Whitworth

The university's gallery stands in Whitworth Park with free entry. In 2015 a glass extension opened toward the park and won Museum of the Year that year. Its wallpaper and textile holdings bring out things rarely shown elsewhere.

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14IWM North

Daniel Libeskind's war museum across the water from Salford Quays, built as shards of a broken globe. Entry is free, and every hour the lights go down for a film thrown across all the walls. A footbridge over the canal leads to MediaCity.

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15Manchester Museum

The university museum, reopened in 2023 after major works. Stan, a cast of a T. rex skeleton, rears up mid-hall; the South Asia gallery is new. Entry is free; children love the upstairs room of live frogs.

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16Mam Tor

A 517m hill in the Peak District, reached by an hour's rail ride from Manchester to Hope or Edale. Its slopes keep slipping, hence Shivering Mountain, and a road given up to landslides in 1979 lies cracked below. Wind scours the ridge path; pack a warm top.

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17Dunham Massey

A Georgian house and deer park near Altrincham, out to the city's south-west, run by the National Trust. Fallow deer roam loose and come close, but feeding them is banned. Displays tell how the house served as a military hospital between 1917 and 1919.

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PLANS FOR THIS CITY

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