Manuel Antonio

Twenty minutes on a forest path reaches sand ringed by trees. Monkeys go for bags, so nobody leaves food behind before going in.

Park guides put a telescope on the branches and point out what is there. Both the three toed and the two toed kind live in the same forest.

They descend to the sand and have learned how to open a bag. Feeding them carries a fine and puts people at risk as well.

A loop around the headland at the park's end shows sea on both sides. It was an island once and sand joined it to the land.

A kayak threads between mangrove roots on the rising tide. Once the water drops there is no way out, so the timing is fixed.

Where the road to the park crests the hill, the sea opens out. People watch the sunset from that spot as it falls into the water.

Reaching it takes forty minutes of driving and a 4 kilometre walk. It drops in two stages and the pool below allows a swim.

From a river bridge the crocodiles on the sandbank lie in view below. The large ones pass 4 metres and by day they barely move.

After dark the forest path is worked for red eyed frogs and poison frogs. A torch has to go under the leaves before they show.

Horses go along the sand once the tide has packed it firm. Waves wash over the hooves and the sound of them does not stop.

A long beach right before the park gate, free to enter, no ticket needed. Renters set out umbrellas and chairs on the sand. A red flag marks where rip currents form, so keep out of the sea near one.

The marina in Quepos town, base for sportfishing boats chasing sailfish. Here any sailfish caught must be released. Even without a boat, a dockside table lets you watch the fleet come in at dusk.

A small cove reached down a short forest path from the hill road lined with hotels. Headlands on both sides block the swell, and the calm water suits snorkelling. Shade runs short, and the spots under the trees go to whoever turns up first in the morning.

Rafting a clear river flowing off the Talamanca range. Class 2 to 3 rapids wind through forest, and plenty of beginners go. Trips commonly pull ashore midway for a rest below a waterfall.

North of Quepos along the coast road lies this park, where the dry forests of the north meet the rainforests of the south. It is known for flocks of scarlet macaws. Toward evening the macaws fly off to roost near the coast, calling loudly.

Started in 1999 by two nine-year-old girls selling painted rocks, the group now cares for injured animals. It is known for stringing rope bridges over roads so squirrel monkeys stop being electrocuted on power lines. A guide leads visits round the sanctuary.

A private reserve up in the hills behind Parrita, north of Quepos. Hanging bridges follow the ravine, and at the trail's end you can wade into a waterfall pool. Visitors are far scarcer here than on the beaches, so birdsong rings out.

An organic spice farm in the hills inland from Quepos, showing vanilla vines, cinnamon trees and pepper. Guides explain how each vanilla flower is pollinated by hand. Tours finish with a tasting of spiced tea and desserts.