EAST MALAYSIA

Miri

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An oil town where Malaysia's first well was drilled in 1910, with rigs still standing offshore. It sits on the Brunei border, and at weekends cars cross over to shop. It is the starting point for Mulu and Niah national parks, and rain comes often from November to February.

01Grand Old Lady

A timber derrick on top of Canada Hill, marking where oil was first pumped in Malaysia in 1910. It stopped producing in 1972, and the tower is a rebuild. The hilltop looks over town and the South China Sea together, and people gather at sunset.

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02Petroleum Museum

Right beside the Grand Old Lady, showing with machinery and models how oil was found and brought up at Miri. The displays are small and an hour is plenty. It crowns the hill, and walking up from town leaves you drenched in sweat, so take a taxi.

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03Niah National Park

Some two hours by car south of Miri lies a vast limestone cave where a human skull 40,000 years old was found. From park headquarters a small boat crosses the river, then a boardwalk runs over an hour through forest. Bring a torch for the Painted Cave beyond.

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04Lambir Hills National Park

Forest thirty minutes south of town where short trails end at waterfalls and pools, and Miri families come at weekends to swim. It ranks among the most tree-diverse forests on earth. Heavy rain often hits late in the afternoon; start out in the morning.

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05Mulu National Park

A World Heritage park about thirty minutes from Miri by small plane, and with no road in, nearly everyone flies. At dusk millions of bats stream out of the Deer Cave mouth in ribbons. The Pinnacles climb takes three days with few places, so book months ahead.

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06Miri-Sibuti Coral Reef National Park

Reef dive sites scattered offshore from town, where fish live round old oil structures sunk on the bottom. River runoff clouds the water in some months, so visibility is best from March to September. Dive shops are few; contact one ahead or no boat goes.

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07Tusan Beach

A beach under cliffs south of town, known for a sea-carved rock like a horse drinking until it fell in 2020. In some seasons glowing plankton turns the waves blue at night. The cliff steps are steep and the sand shrinks on a rising tide; check tide times.

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08San Ching Tian Temple

Among the largest Taoist temples in Southeast Asia, opened in 2000. Stone figures of Taoist immortals line the courtyard and dragons crowd the roofs. It sits inside a housing estate north of the centre, easiest reached by taxi.

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09Tamu Muhibbah

A market where indigenous traders sell what they bring from forest and highland: ferns, wild fruit, Bario rice and honey. Much of it comes wrapped in leaves, so ask the seller how to eat anything unfamiliar. Early morning has the most on the tables.

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10Luak Bay Esplanade

A park promenade along the shore south of town, facing the sea where the sun sets. In the evening joggers and food stalls gather. With cloudy water and strong currents, hardly anyone goes in.

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11Miri City Fan

A town park laid out like an open fan, divided into themed gardens such as Chinese and Islamic ones. In the evening it fills with residents walking and exercising. An open-air amphitheatre hosts stages at festivals.

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12Loagan Bunut National Park

A park holding Sarawak's largest natural lake, which drains to expose its bed in the dry season. Berawan villagers still fish with large nets as the water drops. The drive from Miri takes close to three hours, so most visitors spend a night.

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13Bario

A Kelabit village on a 1,000 m plateau, reached from Miri by small propeller plane. Visitors stay in longhouses and walk among paddies and forest trails. Seats are few, so book early, and bad weather often grounds flights.

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