Ollantaytambo

More than two hundred steps climb the slope to an unfinished temple at the top. Six blocks of pink granite are thought to have come from six kilometres away.

Narrow lanes run between stone walls in a grid, and the doorways are trapezoidal. Where a courtyard door stands open the inner layout shows.

Stone stores cling to the mountainside opposite, sited where the wind runs through them. Entry costs nothing, with forty minutes of dirt path to climb.

Channels cut into stone still carry water along the same course. The sound of it runs under the whole quarter.

Stalls of woven cloth and hats ring the square. Machine and hand weaving differ sharply in price, so the reverse side is worth checking.

Most services toward Machu Picchu leave from this station. A left luggage counter stands outside, so large bags stay behind.

Across the river a rock cave holds Inca cut steps and niches. There is almost no signage, so the way is found by asking.

A downhill route runs from the village toward the salt pans. Nearly all of it drops, which keeps the effort low.

Few street lights and thin air together put a great many stars overhead. In June and July the milky way crosses the sky.

A red flag outside a house means chicha is being sold that day. Benches fill the courtyard and a large glass goes round.

The Inca quarry on the far slope where the fortress's pink granite was cut. Blocks abandoned on the haul to town are called the tired stones. Waymarks are scarce and the round trip takes over half a day, so going with a local guide is safer.

An Inca citadel perched over the Patacancha Valley, north of town. The path climbs between terraces for two to three hours each way. Visitors are rare and the ruins are often yours alone, and some call a taxi for the way down.

Quechua communities in red ponchos live up the valley north of town. Cloth is woven in front yards, and weavers explain that each motif has a name and meaning. Shared vans head up from outside the Ollantaytambo market.

Inflatable rafts on the Urubamba as it runs through the Sacred Valley. From May to October its current stays mild enough for first-timers; rain swells it and roughens it. The river is cold, so outfitters lend wetsuits.

A climbing route on iron rungs up a valley cliff between Ollantaytambo and Urubamba. You come back down by zipline, past glass capsule rooms hanging from the same rock face. All the gear is provided, so no climbing experience is needed.

Ollantaytambo's biggest fiesta, honouring the town's patron cross around Pentecost. Masked dance troupes circle the plaza for several days. The date follows Easter, so it falls in May or June.