Perhentian Islands

Kecil's long east-facing sand, crowded with backpacker lodges and dive shops, the busiest spot on the islands. At night the beach restaurants grill fish and put on fire shows. As the monsoon arrives the surf rises, and some days water taxis cannot land.

The bay on Kecil's west side, about fifteen minutes on foot over the forest path from Long Beach. It opens west, so the sun sets straight into the sea ahead, and the water is calm. The path has no lights, so walking back at night needs a torch.

The only village on the islands, on the south of Kecil, with fishermen's houses, a school and a mosque. It is a place people live rather than a tourist strip, so cover up when you go. The village shops sell water and snacks for less than anywhere else.

A lookout under the wind turbine on a hill on Kecil, up a steep forest path from the south end of Long Beach. From the top you see Besar across the channel dividing the pair. The dirt path turns slippery after rain; trainers suit it better than sandals.

Shallow water under a rocky point at the north of Besar, where young blacktip reef sharks circle over the coral. They are small and shy of people, nothing to fear. Snorkel tour boats stop here as part of a day trip; there is current, so wear a life jacket.

A beach on the northwest of Besar where coral spreads wide right off the sand, so you swim straight out to snorkel. The resort fronts it, but anyone may get in the water. At low tide the coral comes close to the surface and scrapes bellies easily.

Three small coves strung along the northeast of Besar, a nesting beach for green turtles and so placed under protection. Boats cannot land people for long, and visits are from the water. Far from where anyone lives, the sea is very clear.

A freighter that went down in a storm in 2000 with a cargo of sugar, its hull now home to schools of fish. The depth suits divers fresh from a beginner course. Silt stirs up and visibility is often poor, so stay close to the guide.

A rock pinnacle rising from the sea north of Kecil, its name meaning temple of the sea. Divers spiral down around it past soft coral and big schools of fish. Out away from the islands the current runs strong some days, so it suits experienced divers.

The mainland jetty for every boat to the islands, where the marine park fee is paid along with the ticket. There are hardly any cash machines on the islands, so withdraw plenty here. Drivers leave their cars in private car parks round the jetty.

A quiet cove in the northeast of Perhentian Kecil, about an hour's hike over the jungle path behind Long Beach. The trail rises and falls, so carry water and wear trainers. You can call a boat to skip the walk back.

A secluded strand facing west on Perhentian Kecil, some 10 minutes on by forest path from D'Lagoon. As the name suggests, sea turtles are known to haul up on this sand and nest. Nothing is sold here, so carry your own food.

Deep Bay, a sheltered inlet on the south coast of Perhentian Besar, its sand shared by several resorts. Calm, shallow water draws families with children. Fewer boats pass than along the northern beaches, keeping it peaceful.