A colonial city just over two hours east of Mexico City by bus; its tiled old centre is a World Heritage Site. Mole poblano was born in its kitchens, and many come only to eat. The high plateau keeps it cool all year, with clear skies from March through May and again October through November.
A grey stone cathedral on the Zocalo's southern edge, its twin bell towers among Mexico's tallest. Consecrated in the mid seventeenth century, it holds a main altar of onyx and gold leaf. When the facade is lit at dusk, people rest on its steps.
OPEN IN MAPSA chapel opening off Santo Domingo church, its walls and ceiling smothered in gilded baroque carving. Consecrated in the late seventeenth century, it was reportedly hailed as the eighth wonder of the world. During mass, visitors stay at the entrance.
OPEN IN MAPSFounded in 1646 when Bishop Palafox donated his books, it is counted as the first public library in the Americas. Old volumes crowd wooden shelves stacked on 3 levels. To protect the books, visitors cannot enter the reading room and look from behind a railing.
OPEN IN MAPSA small square and lanes southeast in the old centre where antique shops gather. At weekends stalls spread across the square laying out old keys, holy pictures and photographs. At the stalls it is normal to bargain down from the first price.
OPEN IN MAPSA Talavera pottery workshop running since 1824, toured with a guide from clay mixing to brush painting. Only workshops certified under the denomination of origin may use the Talavera name. Tours go at fixed hours, so confirm the time first.
OPEN IN MAPSTwo colonial mansions joined into one museum, showing ancient Mexican artefacts beside modern art. The rooftop terrace cafe overlooks the cathedral towers and the city's tiled domes. Some people skip the exhibits and go up just for the cafe.
OPEN IN MAPSA hilltop fort where the Mexican army defeated French troops in the battle of 5 May 1862. That victory became the Cinco de Mayo holiday, and the fort now houses a museum on the battle. The whole hill is parkland, good for walking with views over the city.
OPEN IN MAPSCounted the largest pyramid on earth by volume, yet buried in soil it passes for a hill, with a church on top. Some of the archaeologists' tunnels inside can be walked through. On a clear morning Popocatepetl volcano shows from the churchyard.
OPEN IN MAPSA small village church south of Cholula, its ceiling filled by indigenous artisans with painted fruit, flowers and angel faces. No photos are allowed inside, and the door staff ask you to pocket phones. Neighbouring Acatepec's church is tiled all over outside.
OPEN IN MAPSA safari park on the southern outskirts where you drive through open fields with giraffes and rhinos roaming. You can tour in your own car, but on the park bus animals walk up to the windows. Mornings, when the animals are lively, are best.
OPEN IN MAPSA museum by Japanese architect Toyo Ito, opened in 2016, its white concrete panels curving on like folds of cloth. It presents Baroque music, architecture and painting together. It stands in the newer part of the city, away from the old centre, so take a taxi.
OPEN IN MAPSOn 6 Oriente in the old town, shops line up selling sweets first made in the convents. Sweet potato candies, pumpkin seed cakes and milk fudge are stacked by colour in glass cases. Buying single pieces lets you sample widely.
OPEN IN MAPSAn 18th-century church in the village next to Tonantzintla, south of Cholula, its entire facade clad in Talavera tiles. In sunlight the yellow, blue and green tiles glitter. A short stroll links it with Tonantzintla, so both are seen together.
OPEN IN MAPSA flower town about 30 minutes from Puebla by car, its mild climate home to many plant nurseries. In September a festival on San Miguel hill gathers Indigenous dances from across the state. On clear days the Popocatepetl volcano is visible from the square.
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