Puerto Natales

Three granite spires rise directly behind a lake and the climb runs nine hours. The final hour crosses a steep field of boulders where hands come into use.

The route crosses the park for 71 kilometres with four stops in the refuges. Beds have to be reserved months ahead for anything to be left.

It flows off the ice field into a lake and its face reads blue. A boat threads between broken floes and comes up to the wall.

Water pours wide through the narrows joining two lakes. The wind is strong and on many days the spray blows sideways.

The hide and bones of an extinct giant ground sloth came out of this cave. Its mouth stands 30 metres high, so the inside is light and airy.

Rock flour turns the water jade with horn shaped peaks standing behind. A bridge reaches a small island on the lake where a lodge sits.

Herds of guanaco graze scattered across the eastern grassland. Pumas hunt them, and tracks turn up there at first light.

An expedition searching for a route pinned its final hope here, and the name records that. A boat out on it reaches two glaciers coming down to the water.

The plant that froze mutton for shipping was converted into lodging and an exhibition. The chimney and the steel frame were left in place.

Andean condors nest on the cliff behind town and take to the air in the afternoon. An hour of climbing brings a walker level with them in flight.

The eastern ranger station of Torres del Paine, where buses from Natales stop. The three granite towers first appear here beyond the lagoon, and many shoot photos straight off the bus. Registration and shuttle changes happen here, so morning queues run long.

A trail on private land close to town climbs to a rock ridge above Natales and Last Hope Sound. It passes through southern beech forest and sees far fewer hikers than the park. The landowner charges entry, and gusts on the ridge snatch hats easily.

A shoreline promenade along the Senoret Channel, where black-necked swans float in flocks near the edge. Snowy ranges line the far shore and change colour toward sunset. Wind drives hard off the water, so a heavy jacket is needed even in midsummer.

A small timber building holding Kawesqar and Aonikenk tools and photographs from the sheep-ranching pioneer years. It has only a few rooms, enough for 30 minutes. On days rain keeps you out of the park, it fills a slot in town.

Kayaks run down the Serrano river south of the park, with the Paine massif seen from the water. Glacial melt keeps it cold enough to ache when a hand goes in. Outfitters lend drysuits, but dry layers for underneath are yours to pack.

A lake at the park's far northeastern end, looking at the three towers from the east. It lies off the main trails, and tour coaches rarely come. In the early morning, once the wind drops, the peaks appear inverted on the surface.

A knoll about 1 hour beyond Salto Grande from the Pudeto landing. Across the milky-green lake stand the Cuernos, black-capped on pale granite bodies. The path is flat, so even a short park day can fit it in.

Buses from Natales cross the border to El Calafate in Argentina in about 5 hours. From there, walkways in front of the glacier put you within earshot of ice walls tens of metres high collapsing. The border crossing makes a same-day return tight; stay a night.

The W plus the park's back side, looping round the Paine massif in about 8 days. Over John Gardner Pass the ice field feeding Grey Glacier spreads out below. The back section closes in winter, and entry requires campsite reservations made in advance.

The big ranches around town, the estancias, demonstrate shearing and sheepdogs herding a flock. Half-day programmes of horseback rides over the steppe are common. Most close with a lunch of lamb roasted beside open flames.