Puerto Viejo

A cycle path leaves the village and runs 13 kilometres down the shore. Several beaches come one after another and palms hold the shade.

Reef lies close enough to shore that it is reached by wading in. One gate asks no fee and runs on what visitors choose to give.

Injured sloths and orphans are brought here and raised. The ones that cannot return to the wild are seen up close.

Beyond the last village both forest and reef fall inside one protected area. Anyone entering without a guide gets lost, so one comes along.

A wave rises abruptly over the reef and surfers gather for it. The bottom is coral, so a fall cuts and beginners stay out.

A village reached across a river shows how cacao is handled. Property and name pass through the women in this society.

Injured monkeys, snakes and birds are treated before going back to the forest. Despite what the name says, a jaguar hardly ever comes in.

A headland breaks the swell and leaves calm water good for swimming. Trees reach the sand and shaded places to sit are plentiful.

A pod is split, the white pulp is tasted and the fermentation boxes are shown. Roasting and grinding follow, and chocolate comes out of it there.

Music brought from the Caribbean is played on guitar and percussion. On set nights the village bars fill and everyone sings along.

A long sandy beach about 1.5 km south of town where surf lessons run all the time. Waves roll in evenly, so many people learn here. Some spots pull out to sea, so swimmers stay near where others gather.

Black sand stretching away northward from the village edge. Though right next to town, it pulls fewer people than the southern beaches, and midday crowds never build. Palms line it close to the water, so finding shade is easy.

Port city of the Caribbean coast, one hour's drive north; Columbus anchored off an island here in 1502. Big old trees fill Vargas Park on the seafront. October brings a carnival of Caribbean music and parades.