Rhodes

Four kilometres of wall enclose two hundred lanes with residents inside them. At night the lamps are low, and the polish on the paving shows.

A fourteenth century fortress, wrecked by an explosion in 1856 and rebuilt in the twentieth. Ancient mosaics brought from another island were laid into its floors.

Stone paving runs six hundred metres past the lodgings of the order, each door carrying the arms of a homeland. No vehicles enter, so footsteps come back off the walls.

On the rock above a white village, an ancient sanctuary and the knights' wall are stacked together. The climb is steep with slick steps, and some ride a donkey up.

From June to September tens of thousands of moths settle on the trees in this ravine. Noise puts them into the air and costs them energy, so people pass quietly.

At the southern tip a thin band of sand joins a small island to the main one. The two seas either side behave differently, one calm and one rough.

Seven sources gather in a pine wood and the channel runs on through a tunnel. The tunnel is 186m long with water to the ankle, walked barefoot.

An Italian spa building of 1929 now works as a bathing place. Its dome and mosaic floors survive, and it draws a steady run of wedding photographs.

A small castle of the order sits on the top of a rock pinnacle. There is no ticket and no keeper, and the steps lead up to walk freely inside the wall.

An ancient town survives in terraces down a hillside. Water pipes and bath structures lie exposed, which puts the town planning in plain sight.

The 15th-century Hospital of the Knights now serves as the museum, galleries ringing its cloistered court. Its prize is the marble Aphrodite of Rhodes, kneeling to dry her hair. Upstairs the long, lofty old ward still shows what the Knights built it for.

A bronze stag and doe crown the columns at the harbour mouth, the spot tradition gives to the Colossus. Three medieval windmills line the mole, with Fort Saint Nicholas at its tip. Day-cruise touts work this quay.

The hill of ancient Ialysos's acropolis, with a monastery from the Knights' era set in pinewood. A Way of the Cross leads to a giant cross you can climb inside. Peacocks roam loose and often plant themselves on the path.

Named for British admiral Sidney Smith, this western hill held ancient Rhodes's acropolis. Pythian Apollo's temple keeps a few columns above a restored stadium and small theatre. Entry is free; at evening people climb to watch the western sea swallow the sun.

Below the Lindos acropolis, rocks nearly close this bay into a still pool. Tradition says the Apostle Paul put in here from a storm, and a small white chapel stands right on the shore. Weddings are often held there, so weekends bring guests.

A tiny monastery crowns the hill above Tsambika beach, up about 300 steps. Women hoping for a child climb barefoot, and babies credited to it are named Tsambikos or Tsambika. There is no shade on the steps; climb while the morning is cool.

Built in 1577 within the Juderia, the Jewish quarter, it is Greece's oldest synagogue. Black and white pebble mosaic paves the floor, and a side room holds a small museum. The names of Rhodes Jews deported in 1944 are inscribed on the courtyard wall.

A small rocky cove south of Faliraki, named for the actor after The Guns of Navarone was filmed around here in 1960. Over a rock bottom the water runs emerald and snorkellers love it. The sand patch is tiny, so latecomers settle on the rocks.