Sharm el Sheikh

The reserve at the peninsula tip has reef walls that drop straight down. Above water it holds salt marsh and mangrove together.

Four coral pillars rise in a line across a narrow strait. Current runs hard here, so a dive travels one way with it.

A crescent bay carries a sand beach with a promenade behind it. Shallow calm water here suits small children.

Between two reefs lie bathroom fittings spilled from a wrecked freighter. The current carries a diver from one to the other in a single run.

Set apart from the resorts, prices differ here and bargaining is expected. Spice shops weigh out what is wanted into a paper bag.

A boat with glass set into the floor passes over the reef. Shoals of fish show without anyone entering the water.

A sandbar that shows only at low tide carries not a single tree. A rising tide covers it, so boats run to the schedule of the water.

Where desert meets sea a mangrove belt runs 5 kilometres. Roots stand exposed in the sand and the shape changes when the tide rises.

Divers walk in from the beach here rather than taking a boat. Steps and a rail make the entry manageable even under a full kit.

Quad bikes run about an hour across the gravel desert behind town. The dust is heavy, so a cloth goes over the face.

Finished after years of building amid the Old Market, its cream stone mixes Mamluk and Ottoman styles. At dusk floodlights pick out minarets at the end of every market lane. Terrace restaurants nearby make it a dinner view.

A Coptic Orthodox cathedral in the Hay el Nour district, every inch of its ceiling covered in painted sky, angels and Bible stories. Necks ache from craning upward so long. Cover shoulders and knees to go in.

A reef reached by steps down the cliff below the Hadaba lighthouse, where sea fans spread like a forest. It drops off right from the shore, so a few strokes put you floating along the wall. When the tide turns the current picks up.

A small bay north of Naama Bay where, despite the name, sharks are not common. The reef just off the beach falls away steeply, so even a snorkeller sees deep blue water. It is calmer than Naama, drawing people who want a quiet swim.

A headland near the airport with two shore-entry dive sites running along a coral wall. Underwater you hear planes coming in to land overhead. Its clear water makes it a favourite for the morning's opening dive.