Sukhothai

The royal temple in the centre of the old city, its main stupa crowned with a lotus bud, the model of Sukhothai style. Walking monks in relief circle the base and seated Buddhas line the bare columns. Arrive early in the morning for its sunrise reflection.

A walled square hall filled by Phra Achana, a seated Buddha 15m high whose face shows only through a narrow slit. A stair hides in the thick wall; legend says someone spoke from it so the Buddha seemed to talk. It is outside the walls to the north.

A bell-shaped stupa and a seated Buddha on an islet in a pond, reached by a wooden footbridge. The stupa is Sri Lankan in style, unlike the lotus-bud ones, which is easy to compare. Its reflection at dusk is the most photographed view in the park.

Three Khmer-style towers shaped like ears of corn stand in a row, built as a Hindu shrine and later turned Buddhist. Stucco on the towers still shows mythical beasts, and the moated enclosure is quiet. Wat Mahathat is a short stroll to the north.

A seated statue of King Ramkhamhaeng, credited with the Thai script, beside a copy of the inscription on his reign. The stone itself is in the Bangkok National Museum, and scholars dispute whether it is truly 13th century. Thais leave flowers and incense.

A standing Buddha some 12m tall on a hill west of the walls, facing the old city. The path up, paved with flat slate slabs, takes over 10 minutes and has no shade, so set off early in the morning. The top looks back over the trees to the old city.

The Sukhothai kingdom's second city, its ruins scattered through woods by the Yom River and far quieter than Sukhothai. At Wat Chang Lom, 39 sculpted elephants ring the base of the stupa. It is about 60km north of the new town and needs its own day.

Hundreds of kilns that fired pottery from about the 14th century lie buried at Ban Ko Noi near Si Satchanalai, some dug out and roofed over as found. Celadon from here went by ship as far as the Philippines and Indonesia. Nearby workshops copy the old designs.

On the full moon of the twelfth lunar month, candle-lit banana-leaf floats go onto the water, a custom traced to the Sukhothai era, so the park holds the biggest celebration. For days the ruins are lit with light and sound shows, and rooms fill early.

A national park southwest of Sukhothai with a trail up the granite peak of Khao Luang, over half a day to the top. On dry-season dawns a sea of cloud lies below the summit, and many people camp a night up there. Sign in at the trailhead.

Inside the park east of Wat Mahathat, it holds bronze Buddhas, stucco and Sangkhalok ceramics from the ruins. Its walking Buddha is rated the finest of the Sukhothai style, and carved stones fill the garden. Come before the ruins to know what to look for.

A temple outside the north wall, thought to be the town centre under Khmer rule before the Sukhothai kingdom. Of three Khmer prangs only the northern one keeps its shape, stucco still clinging. Fewer people come than inside the walls, so cyclists linger.

Outside the south wall, a slate-built square hall once held a Buddha on each face: standing, walking, seated and reclining. The walking figure keeps its outline best. A few minutes' ride from the south gate, but signs are scarce, so use a map.

A Thai Phuan village on the Yom in Si Satchanalai where households weave teen jok cloth with gold thread. In early April boys about to be ordained parade on elephants in bright costume. Village shops sell the cloth; handwoven pieces cost plenty.