NEW SOUTH WALES
Sydney
WANT TO GO11.5k
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PLANS1

The harbour cuts so far in that ferry wharves do the work subway stations do elsewhere. The Opera House and the Harbour Bridge stand in one view from Circular Quay, and the eastern beaches are half an hour out by bus. The comfortable months for walking are March and April, then October and November.

01Sydney Opera House

The roof tiles are not one white but two, a glossy white and a matt cream. Stand close and the surface looks blotchy; only distance pulls it into a sheet. To see the halls you sign up separately for the backstage tour that goes round in the morning.

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02Harbour Bridge Pylon Lookout

Besides the BridgeClimb over the arch there is a lookout reached by stairs inside the stone pylon at the southeast end. It costs a fraction as much and stands nearly as high, so if all you want is the photograph this is the better door.

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03Bondi to Coogee Coastal Walk

The path follows the cliff from Bondi to Coogee, dipping into one bay after another. At Waverley Cemetery the headstones lean over the water and everyone slows. In spring a sculpture show is laid along it, and for those weeks you shuffle.

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04Royal Botanic Garden and Mrs Macquarie's Chair

The garden runs along the harbour behind the Opera House and has no fence, so you step in from any side. On the sandstone point at its east end a bench was cut from the rock for the governor's wife, and that angle overlaps house and bridge.

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05The Rocks

Plague reached the port in 1900 and the lanes on the harbour side came down and were rebuilt. Cadman's Cottage, put up in 1816 as quarters for a boat crew, came through it. On Saturday and Sunday stalls take over the lanes and you move at half speed.

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06Manly Ferry

Leave the harbour cruise ticket alone and take the scheduled ferry to Manly. It crosses the same water for what a city bus costs and takes thirty minutes. The open seats at the bow meet the swell face on where the boat slips between the Heads.

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07Three Sisters

Three sandstone pillars, set to be looked at across the valley from Echo Point rather than from below. The blue haze is light scattering off oil the eucalypts breathe out. Take the Giant Stairway down and the climb back costs twice the time.

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08Hyde Park Barracks

Built in 1819 for convicts, now a museum about nothing else. Hammocks hang in rows upstairs, so the width one man got is measurable by eye. Under the floorboards lay thousands of objects rats dragged there: buttons, cards, letter scraps no ledger held.

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09Cockatoo Island

A convict prison that turned into a shipyard, and the only way onto it now is the ferry. The docks and tunnels have not been altered, and on the grass above them a campground hires out tents for the night.

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11Taronga Zoo

A zoo across the harbour from Circular Quay by ferry, its enclosures stepped down a steep hillside. Giraffes pose against the Opera House and city towers, so one frame catches both. The wharf is at the bottom: start at the top gate and work downhill.

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12Barangaroo Reserve

A container wharf remade as a headland park in 2015. The sandstone blocks edging the water were quarried from the site itself during construction. It faces the bridge's far western footing head-on, and at dusk people settle on its grass.

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14Queen Victoria Building

A Romanesque market hall finished in 1898, filling an entire city block. It nearly fell to the wreckers decades later, was restored during the 1980s and now houses shops. Two huge clocks hang under the glass roof, and everyone ends up gazing upward.

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15Bondi Icebergs Pool

A seawater pool carved into the rocks where Bondi Beach ends to the south. When the swell is big, the ocean breaks over the wall into the lanes. Anyone may swim after paying entry; the name belongs to the club whose members swim here weekly all winter.

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16Spit to Manly Walk

A walk of about 10km along the harbour's northern shore from the Spit Bridge to Manly. Bush tracks alternate with small sandy coves, and on one headland Aboriginal rock engravings survive. It finishes close to Manly wharf; return by ferry.

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17Royal National Park

Declared in 1879, the world's second-oldest national park begins one hour south of the city. Many cross from Cronulla to Bundeena by small ferry and start the clifftop coast walk there. Waves sweep the rock pools; go only at low tide in calm seas.

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18Luna Park Sydney

An amusement park opened in 1935 right under the bridge's north shore approach. The entrance is a giant grinning face, and you walk in through its mouth. Getting into the grounds costs nothing; tickets are bought only for the rides.

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19Barrenjoey Lighthouse

A sandstone lighthouse from 1881 crowning the headland at Palm Beach, the city's northern tip. A steep track climbs to it between ocean and Pittwater. Palm Beach is where the long-running series Home and Away is shot, so some days a crew is filming.

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20Chinese Garden of Friendship

Built beside Darling Harbour for the 1988 bicentenary, designed by landscape architects from the sister city Guangzhou. Ponds, pavilions and a waterfall fill the walled space, so the towers just outside barely show. The teahouse looks over the pond.

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21Wendy Whiteley's Secret Garden

After the painter Brett Whiteley died, his wife Wendy turned derelict railway land below their house into a garden with her own hands. Steps and benches hide down the Lavender Bay slope, the harbour glinting between them. No fence or ticket office: wander in.

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22Scenic World

A Katoomba clifftop attraction in the Blue Mountains where an old mine track carries the world's steepest passenger railway. Ride down to the rainforest floor, walk the boardwalk, return by cable car. Central to Katoomba takes two hours; catch a morning train.

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